Awoke early to board the Inca Express, a special tour bus that goes between Puno & Cusco. We will spent several hours getting to Cusco, and we will enjoy touristic stops along the way. Well worth the extra cost!
As we left Hotel Qelqatani, the staff surprised us with a gifts - cups and bookmarks from the hotel. We figure this must have been Paula`s doing - she was the waitress at Hotel del Monastario in Arequipa, and we believe this hotel in Puno belongs to her boyfriend´s family. A generous touch, to say the least! (Hotel costs were $66 US per night. A bit steep, but worth every penny!)
Leaving Puno, we drove into Juliaca, where the airport is located. Our guide informed us that this city was the centre for textiles - wool mills that send their products throughout Peru. No wonder we see the same products in all the local marketplaces! Juliaca is one mess of a city - dirty, with piles of stone rubble and incomplete buildings all over the place. Total chaos... I would never stay here - period! The people are into tax evasion, so as long as their buildings are incomplete, they do not have to pay the local taxes.
Drove onto Pucara where we visited an Inca `ruins`museum. The collection was similar to Dreyer`s collection in Puno - just more extensive. We appreciated seeing these works.
Pucara is the town where the pottery bulls which adorn the rooftops of homes are made. These bulls are said to promote prosperity, wealth and good health to the family home. A Christian cross and two vessels, one with food, the other water, can also be found alongside the bulls on the rooftops. Peruvians are covering all bases - they truly seek prosperity for their families.
Driving along we saw huge herds of alpacas and some vicunas. The countryside is getting greener, and the mountains appear less rocky. They actually look as if they have a velvety coat to them. Beautiful!
We reached La Raya, the highest point on our route. We stopped for photos of the snowy mountain ranges and glaciers. Absolutely stunning!
Lunched at Sicuan for an absolutely delicious buffet of Peruvian food! Listened to a musical group playing the flute, and enjoyed the warm mid-day sunshine!
Moved onto Raqushi, visiting the Inca ruins of a walled town, called Wiracocha`s Palace. Mgnificent! We were in awe with the amazing stonework. We just do not know how the Incas managed this fine stone construction.
The landscape is changing considerably. We are descending into the Cusco district and so much greenery now surrounds us. Eucalyptus forests, farming of all sorts, people cutting the wheat by hand, or tossing it, separating the wheat from the chaff. We are seeing an outstanding view of country life in Peru, yet everyone really is dirt-poor.
The Cusco law requires that all homes have tiled rooftops, something that came from the Spanish. No homes are to left unfinished either. This part of our drive gives one the feeling that all is well with the country, peace and good health appear to exist here. This was also the first time that we felt there was prosperity and hope for this land and its people.
We stopped at another little village and visited a Jesuit Church which is beautifully decorated with frescoes painted on the inside walls and ceiling. The church was then taken over by the Dominican order, who placed European copies of religious paintings over the original frescoe art. Such a shame... The altar was magnificent - covered completely in gold leaf, floor to ceiling. Once more, we saw the representation of Inca symbols in the statures, which ensured the people would remain faithful as they converted to Christianity. The Blessed Virgin Mary and Pathamama (Mother Earth) are one and the same. Interesting indeed!
Then onto Cusco. Arrived at a dingy bus depot, and taxied to our hotel - Ninos 2. I was exhausted, so I was not too impressed with the place at first glance, but it did prove to be a jewel of a little hotel - just what we needed! ($44 US per night, and a hot water shower!) The profits from this hotel support three groups of Cusco street children with education, clothing and food. We do like this place. Slept well, and are looking forward to tomorrow, (anxiety is mounting...) our first day in Cusco!
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what an amazing place it seems as you share the highlights of your journey. School is over, the weather is parched, dry and trees are dying. I am looking forward to your return and a visit. All is well here. Terry is very busy and of course I just have clean up to do and then rest. We are still looking for a place, me very seriously, Terry well, time will tell. Take care and lots of love to you both. Keep safe and we look forward to your return.
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